Master Blend for Marijuana questions and answers
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Soil2Coco stated that they primarily use Deep Water Culture with multiple feeds, which typically results in 500-600 parts per million. This is a different scenario than Deep Water Culture.
The message was sent from their iPhone via the Grasscity Forum.
They acknowledged the thanks and mentioned that they are presently operating at 650-750, which seems to be well received.
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I'm also not fond of New York.
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Appreciation is extended to the two contributors for the comprehensive program. The process demands the integration of different parts separately. First, a master blend is incorporated, followed by calcium, and finally magnesium. Each of these are added individually.
A question arises regarding the type of water to use - osmosis or tap water? A conversation with a hydroponics supplier based in Europe who sells Master blend revealed they simply use tap water. Could this be an area of concern? Perhaps the issue might stem from the use of osmosis water.
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The issue surfaced during the second week of growth and escalated rapidly.
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The process of growing in soil involves using three parts of the masterblend. However, you should not combine the calcium with the masterblend and Epsom salts. First, blend the masterblend with the Epsom salts in your water. After that, add a bit more water before incorporating the calcium. Finally, add the remaining water and regulate the pH levels. Avoid mixing everything together at once as it can cause complications. This information might already be familiar to you, but I hope it's helpful nonetheless.
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Hi, I recently purchased and tested Master blend. I'm using a hydroponics system with osmosis water, specifically the ebb and flow method, and following the soil2coco program. However, I'm facing a major issue with calcium deficiency. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Apologies for any language errors, as I am a grower from a non-English speaking background.
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Soil2Coco mentioned that they usually administer multiple feeds, leading to a maximum of 500-600 ppm, which differs significantly from DWC.
In response from my iPhone on the Grasscity Forum, I expressed gratitude.
Currently, I'm operating at 650-750 and it seems to be well-received.
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The text has been altered as per your request:
This is my nutrient regimen.
Sent via my iPhone on the Grasscity Forum.
Apologies, I've made changes to my previous message.
What's your measurement for parts per million? -
Incorrect location
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Presented to me by Soil2coco.
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If you're reasonably nearby, say within a couple of states, I can deliver some to you when I harvest in a few weeks.
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I operate a recirculating deep water culture system utilising reverse osmosis (RO) water, as our local water supply is approximately 350 PPM and contains chloramines that harm my plants. I'm left with no other option but to use RO, as even the taste of the water is quite chemical-laden and undrinkable.
Now, my query revolves around the ideal PPM levels. What should be the maximum limit to which I can increase the PPM? At present, my range is between 650 and 750.
Moreover, my plants are consuming about 5 gallons of water each day. With my current setup of bucket capacity, I can only accommodate approximately 25 gallons considering the 5-gallon buckets are entirely filled with roots.
Additionally, should I strive to maintain the 650-750 range each time I replenish the water? If not, I've noticed it drops to roughly 500.
Lastly, I'm concerned about salt accumulation. Would it be advisable to change the reservoir weekly to prevent salt build-up?
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Appreciate your response. It's great to see your current settings are working well. The advantage of this is that you'll have a long-lasting supply of nutrients at a fraction of the cost, eliminating the need to invest in expensive or diluted products. Plus, the transition to LED lighting has further reduced your expenses.
Unfortunately, due to my recurring health issues and a persistent mite infestation, I haven't been able to harvest for two seasons, which is quite frustrating. My strategy is to grow autoflowers in the garden to disrupt the indoor cycle. My hope is to completely eliminate all mite traces in the room by the winter season, provided I maintain good health and am able to resume my activities.
Message sent via a mobile app forum.
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Recently, I've transitioned from using a GH 3-part system to a Master Blend that includes Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, along with flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've adopted a specific feeding schedule that I've found to be effective - more than 40 days into flowering, my plants are thriving and the buds are maturing very well.
The feeding schedule relies on manipulating the proportions of Magnesium sulfate, Calcium Nitrate, and a Masterblend 4-18-38 base throughout the growth cycle. For example, in early vegetation stage for each 5 gallons, I use 3g of Magnesium sulfate, 6g of Calcium Nitrate, 6g of Masterblend base, 12 ml of silica, and 12 ml of hydroguard. In the late vegetation stage, I increase the quantities to 5g of Magnesium sulfate, 10g of Calcium Nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, along with the same amounts of silica and hydroguard.
As the plant enters the early flowering stage around week 3, I adjust again to 8g Magnesium sulfate, 2g Calcium Nitrate, 8g Masterblend base, and a half dose of Flower Fuel. In the mid-flowering phase, weeks 4-6, I use 10g of Magnesium sulfate, 1g of Calcium Nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, and a full dose of Flower Fuel.
In the week before the flush, I reduce the quantities to 5g of Magnesium sulfate, 5g of Masterblend base, and half a dose of Flower Fuel. The flush is carried out for a week or longer until the PPMs are below 200. I cannot claim the credit for this efficient feeding schedule, it is borrowed from another experienced grower.
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Recently, I purchased and tested Master Blend. I'm using an ebb and flow hydroponics system with osmosis water, following the soil2coco program. However, I'm encountering a significant calcium deficiency issue. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Apologies if my English isn't perfect, as I'm a grower from France.
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Recently, I transitioned from GH 3 part to Master Blend, incorporating Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, along with flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've been adhering to a particular feeding routine that's been successful thus far. Now, over 40 days into flowering, the buds are beginning to droop and develop an intriguing appearance, with an extraordinary level of trichomes that cause a bud to stick to the wall if thrown at it.
Here's the feeding plan I use:
During early vegetation for every 5 gallons:
- 3g of magnesium sulfate
- 6g of Calcium Nitrate
- 6g of Masterblend base
- 12 ml of silica
- 12 ml of hydroguard
For late vegetation for every 5 gallons:
- 5g of magnesium sulfate
- 10g of Calcium Nitrate
- 10g of Masterblend base
- 12 ml of silica
- 12ml of hydroguard
For early flowering (week 3) for every 5 gallons:
- 8g of magnesium sulfate
- 2g of calcium nitrate
- 8g of Masterblend base
- Half dose of Flower Fuel
During mid flowering weeks 4-6 for every 5 gallons:
- 10g of magnesium sulfate
- 1g of Calcium Nitrate
- 10g of Masterblend base
- Full dose of Flower Fuel
The week before flush:
- 5g of magnesium sulfate
- 5g of Masterblend base
- Half dose of Flower Fuel
Afterwards, I flush for about a week or until the ppms fall below 200. This is the feeding schedule I follow.
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The cultivation process in soil involves a mixture of masterblend in a 3-part ratio. However, it's important not to combine the calcium with the masterblend and epsom salts. Initially, you should mix the masterblend with the epsom salts in water, then add a small amount of water followed by the calcium. Finally, top up with the remaining water and adjust the pH level. Mixing everything simultaneously can lead to complications. This information might be already known to you, but it's shared with the intention of being helpful.
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It's good to see you're still around on the discussion boards. It's unfortunate to hear that the second round also has mites. That's truly disappointing.
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Soil2Coco shared their feeding routine.
This message was originally composed on an iPhone using the Grasscity Forum. Apologies for the earlier edit to the post. Can you share the Parts Per Million levels you use?
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Great to hear you're having success with the 650-750 range, it's proving to be cost-effective as well. There's no need to invest in pricier products like AN or other diluted ones. Your switch to LED has further reduced costs.
Unfortunately, health issues and a mite infestation have disrupted my growing cycles. I haven't been able to harvest for two periods and it's affecting me significantly. I'm planning to plant auto flowers in the garden, taking a break from indoor growth, in hopes of eradicating any mite presence by winter. Assuming I'm healthy and up to it by then, I'll get back to it.
This message was sent from my iPhone via the Grasscity Forum.