Master Blend for Marijuana questions and answers
-
Hi, I recently purchased and tested Master blend. I'm using a hydroponics system with osmosis water, specifically the ebb and flow method, and following the soil2coco program. However, I'm facing a major issue with calcium deficiency. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Apologies for any language errors, as I am a grower from a non-English speaking background.
-
Soil2Coco mentioned that they usually administer multiple feeds, leading to a maximum of 500-600 ppm, which differs significantly from DWC.
In response from my iPhone on the Grasscity Forum, I expressed gratitude.
Currently, I'm operating at 650-750 and it seems to be well-received.
-
The text has been altered as per your request:
This is my nutrient regimen.
Sent via my iPhone on the Grasscity Forum.
Apologies, I've made changes to my previous message.
What's your measurement for parts per million? -
Incorrect location
-
Presented to me by Soil2coco.
-
If you're reasonably nearby, say within a couple of states, I can deliver some to you when I harvest in a few weeks.
-
I operate a recirculating deep water culture system utilising reverse osmosis (RO) water, as our local water supply is approximately 350 PPM and contains chloramines that harm my plants. I'm left with no other option but to use RO, as even the taste of the water is quite chemical-laden and undrinkable.
Now, my query revolves around the ideal PPM levels. What should be the maximum limit to which I can increase the PPM? At present, my range is between 650 and 750.
Moreover, my plants are consuming about 5 gallons of water each day. With my current setup of bucket capacity, I can only accommodate approximately 25 gallons considering the 5-gallon buckets are entirely filled with roots.
Additionally, should I strive to maintain the 650-750 range each time I replenish the water? If not, I've noticed it drops to roughly 500.
Lastly, I'm concerned about salt accumulation. Would it be advisable to change the reservoir weekly to prevent salt build-up?
-
Appreciate your response. It's great to see your current settings are working well. The advantage of this is that you'll have a long-lasting supply of nutrients at a fraction of the cost, eliminating the need to invest in expensive or diluted products. Plus, the transition to LED lighting has further reduced your expenses.
Unfortunately, due to my recurring health issues and a persistent mite infestation, I haven't been able to harvest for two seasons, which is quite frustrating. My strategy is to grow autoflowers in the garden to disrupt the indoor cycle. My hope is to completely eliminate all mite traces in the room by the winter season, provided I maintain good health and am able to resume my activities.
Message sent via a mobile app forum.
-
Recently, I've transitioned from using a GH 3-part system to a Master Blend that includes Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, along with flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've adopted a specific feeding schedule that I've found to be effective - more than 40 days into flowering, my plants are thriving and the buds are maturing very well.
The feeding schedule relies on manipulating the proportions of Magnesium sulfate, Calcium Nitrate, and a Masterblend 4-18-38 base throughout the growth cycle. For example, in early vegetation stage for each 5 gallons, I use 3g of Magnesium sulfate, 6g of Calcium Nitrate, 6g of Masterblend base, 12 ml of silica, and 12 ml of hydroguard. In the late vegetation stage, I increase the quantities to 5g of Magnesium sulfate, 10g of Calcium Nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, along with the same amounts of silica and hydroguard.
As the plant enters the early flowering stage around week 3, I adjust again to 8g Magnesium sulfate, 2g Calcium Nitrate, 8g Masterblend base, and a half dose of Flower Fuel. In the mid-flowering phase, weeks 4-6, I use 10g of Magnesium sulfate, 1g of Calcium Nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, and a full dose of Flower Fuel.
In the week before the flush, I reduce the quantities to 5g of Magnesium sulfate, 5g of Masterblend base, and half a dose of Flower Fuel. The flush is carried out for a week or longer until the PPMs are below 200. I cannot claim the credit for this efficient feeding schedule, it is borrowed from another experienced grower.
-
Recently, I purchased and tested Master Blend. I'm using an ebb and flow hydroponics system with osmosis water, following the soil2coco program. However, I'm encountering a significant calcium deficiency issue. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Apologies if my English isn't perfect, as I'm a grower from France.
-
Recently, I transitioned from GH 3 part to Master Blend, incorporating Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, along with flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've been adhering to a particular feeding routine that's been successful thus far. Now, over 40 days into flowering, the buds are beginning to droop and develop an intriguing appearance, with an extraordinary level of trichomes that cause a bud to stick to the wall if thrown at it.
Here's the feeding plan I use:
During early vegetation for every 5 gallons:
- 3g of magnesium sulfate
- 6g of Calcium Nitrate
- 6g of Masterblend base
- 12 ml of silica
- 12 ml of hydroguard
For late vegetation for every 5 gallons:
- 5g of magnesium sulfate
- 10g of Calcium Nitrate
- 10g of Masterblend base
- 12 ml of silica
- 12ml of hydroguard
For early flowering (week 3) for every 5 gallons:
- 8g of magnesium sulfate
- 2g of calcium nitrate
- 8g of Masterblend base
- Half dose of Flower Fuel
During mid flowering weeks 4-6 for every 5 gallons:
- 10g of magnesium sulfate
- 1g of Calcium Nitrate
- 10g of Masterblend base
- Full dose of Flower Fuel
The week before flush:
- 5g of magnesium sulfate
- 5g of Masterblend base
- Half dose of Flower Fuel
Afterwards, I flush for about a week or until the ppms fall below 200. This is the feeding schedule I follow.
-
The cultivation process in soil involves a mixture of masterblend in a 3-part ratio. However, it's important not to combine the calcium with the masterblend and epsom salts. Initially, you should mix the masterblend with the epsom salts in water, then add a small amount of water followed by the calcium. Finally, top up with the remaining water and adjust the pH level. Mixing everything simultaneously can lead to complications. This information might be already known to you, but it's shared with the intention of being helpful.
-
It's good to see you're still around on the discussion boards. It's unfortunate to hear that the second round also has mites. That's truly disappointing.
-
Soil2Coco shared their feeding routine.
This message was originally composed on an iPhone using the Grasscity Forum. Apologies for the earlier edit to the post. Can you share the Parts Per Million levels you use?
-
Great to hear you're having success with the 650-750 range, it's proving to be cost-effective as well. There's no need to invest in pricier products like AN or other diluted ones. Your switch to LED has further reduced costs.
Unfortunately, health issues and a mite infestation have disrupted my growing cycles. I haven't been able to harvest for two periods and it's affecting me significantly. I'm planning to plant auto flowers in the garden, taking a break from indoor growth, in hopes of eradicating any mite presence by winter. Assuming I'm healthy and up to it by then, I'll get back to it.
This message was sent from my iPhone via the Grasscity Forum.
-
Thanks to Clearsky and Harddrive for providing the complete program. I understand that each component needs to be incorporated separately. The sequence went with masterblend first, followed by calcium, and finally magnesium, each added one at a time.
Harddrive, do you prefer using purified water or regular tap water? I contacted a hydroponics supplier in Europe, who told me that they just use ordinary tap water. What's your take on this? It's possible that the issue might be due to the use of purified water... -
I recently transitioned from using a GH 3 part to a Master Blend, which includes Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, as well as flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've been following a feeding schedule that has worked well so far. I'm more than 40 days into the flowering stage and the buds are beginning to droop and take on a rough appearance, with high levels of thrics making them sticky.
The feeding schedule involves the use of magnesium sulfate, calcium nitrate, and a Masterblend 4-18-38 base. It's fantastic to have the flexibility to adjust these throughout the growing process. For example, in the early vegetative stage for every 5 gallons, I use 3g of magnesium sulfate, 6g of calcium nitrate, 6g of the Masterblend base, 12 ml of silica, and 12 ml of hydroguard.
In the late vegetative stage for every 5 gallons, I step up to 5g of magnesium sulfate, 10g of calcium nitrate, 10g of the Masterblend base, and maintain the same amount of silica and hydroguard.
For early flowering in week 3 per 5 gallons, I use 8g of magnesium sulfate, 2g of calcium nitrate, 8g of the Masterblend base, and half a dose of Flower Fuel.
In the mid-flowering stage (weeks 4-6) per 5 gallons, the use goes up to 10g of magnesium sulfate and the Masterblend base, 1g of calcium nitrate, and a full dose of Flower Fuel.
In the week before flushing, I reduce to 5g each of magnesium sulfate and the Masterblend base, and half a dose of Flower Fuel. I then flush for about a week or until the ppm is below 200. This is the feeding schedule I follow.
Message sent using the Grasscity Forum on my iPhone.
-
Appreciate the update. You're currently running between 650-750, and it's working out well. I'm delighted to hear about your success. With this approach, you'll have a sustainable and cost-effective nutrient supply for years to come. There's no need to splurge on expensive or diluted products like AN. The transition to LED lighting further reduces your costs.
However, I've been having health issues that keep me hospital-bound, and I'm struggling with a recurring mite infestation, which has prevented me from harvesting for two cycles. It's quite frustrating. To disrupt this cycle, I'm planting auto flowers outdoors. My hope is to completely eradicate the mite infestation in the indoor space by winter. If my health permits, I plan to resume operations.
This message was sent using the Grasscity Forum app on my iPhone.
-
If you're within a reasonable distance, I'll deliver you some when I make a cut in the next few weeks. Thanks for the sentiment, but regrettably, I reside in a less than ideal part of New York state.
Sent from my smartphone via the Grasscity Forum.
-
It's great to see you're still active on the discussion boards. It's really unfortunate to learn that the second batch also got infested with mites. That's truly disappointing.