Master Blend for Marijuana questions and answers
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Presented to me by Soil2coco
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I manage a Recirculating Deep Water Culture (RDWC) system using Reverse Osmosis (RO) water. The municipal water supply here has a high ppm around 350 and contains chloramines, which are harmful to my plants. Thus, I am compelled to use RO water. I can't even consume this water due to its chemical-like taste.
I'm unsure about the ideal Parts Per Million (PPM) levels.
What should be the highest PPM level? Currently, it hovers between 650 and 750.My plants consume approximately 5 gallons of water daily. The total capacity is about 25 gallons, but due to the buckets being filled with roots, it's less.
Should I maintain the 650-750 ratio every time I refill the water? If I don't, the level drops to about 500.
Lastly, I'm concerned about salt accumulation.
Would it be advisable to change the reservoir weekly to prevent salt build-up? -
Incorrect location
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Incorrect location
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I typically operate DTW with multiple feeds, which usually results in 500-600 ppm at maximum. This is a distinct process compared to DWC.
This message was posted from my iPhone using an online gardening forum.
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I operate a recirculating deep water culture (RDWC) system using reverse osmosis (RO) water because the municipal water supply, registering at approximately 350 parts per million (PPM), contains chloramines that are harmful to my plants. Even drinking the water is unpalatable due to its distinct chemical taste.
I'm wondering about the ideal PPM levels for my setup. Currently, I'm maintaining a range of 650-750 PPM.
Also, the plants are consuming about 5 gallons of water daily, and my storage capacity is limited to 25 gallons, due to the 5-gallon buckets being filled with roots.
Should I strive to keep the PPM ratio constant at 650-750 each time I refill? If not, it drops to roughly 500 or so.
Lastly, regarding salt accumulation, would it be beneficial to refresh the reservoir weekly to prevent build-up?
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Apologies.
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It's great to see you continuing to participate in the forums. It's unfortunate to hear that you encountered mites again in the second round. That's really disappointing.
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I recently transitioned from using a GH 3 part mix to a Master Blend that includes Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, as well as flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've been using a feeding schedule that's been working well so far. I'm over 40 days into the flowering phase and the buds are beginning to droop and take on a gnarled appearance. The trichomes are so abundant that if you throw a bud, it would stick to the wall.
The feeding schedule involves manipulating the amounts of magnesium sulfate, calcium nitrate, and Masterblend 4-18-38 base at different stages of growth. For early vegetation, I use 3g of magnesium sulfate, 6g of calcium nitrate, 6g of the Masterblend base, 12 ml of silica, and 12 ml of hydroguard for every 5 gallons.
During late vegetation, I increase the amounts to 5g of magnesium sulfate, 10g of calcium nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, while keeping the silica and hydroguard at 12 ml each.
In the early flowering stage (week 3), I use 8g of magnesium sulfate, 2g of calcium nitrate, 8g of Masterblend base, and half a dose of flower fuel.
During mid-flowering (weeks 4-6), the amounts are 10g of magnesium sulfate, 1g of calcium nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, and a full dose of flower fuel.
In the week before flushing, I decrease the amounts to 5g of magnesium sulfate, 5g of Masterblend base, and half a dose of flower fuel. I then flush for a week or until the ppms come out below 200. That's the feeding schedule I've been using.
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The paraphrased text would be:
The multi-feed method I use usually has a concentration of around 500-600 parts per million (ppm). This technique is different from Deep Water Culture (DWC).
For my current setup, I'm maintaining a concentration of 650-750 ppm and the plants seem to be thriving.
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HardDrive mentioned that they use reverse osmosis (RO) water in their deep water culture system because the city water contains chloramines which harm their plants, and also has an unpleasant chemical taste. They asked about the proper parts per million (PPM) levels for their water, currently maintained around 650 to 750, and whether or not to maintain this level each time water is added. They also enquired about dealing with salt accumulation, and whether changing the water reservoir every week is advisable.
The response acknowledged unfamiliarity with the specific methods and substances mentioned, citing @Soil2Coco's methods as an example. It was suggested that trying out these methods could be beneficial, taking into account that different fertiliser brands have varying recommended PPM or EC levels and that these can sometimes cause disagreements or adaptations affecting concentrations.
Regarding the water reservoir maintenance, it was suggested to clean it every 7 to 10 days unless an issue arises. A detailed cleaning method was provided, including the use of FloraKleen, peroxide, and bleach. This intensive cleaning usually happens between growth cycles, but it may be necessary during a cycle if there are concerns.
Finally, it was suggested to add boosters and decrease nitrogen levels during the final weeks of growth, as this can significantly enhance the end product.
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You may already be aware of this, but when using a three-part masterblend for growth in soil, it's crucial not to mix the calcium with the masterblend and Epsom salts. Firstly, combine the master blend with the Epsom salts in water. After that, add a bit more water, followed by the calcium. Complete the process by adding the remaining water and adjusting the pH level. Mixing everything simultaneously can result in counterproductive reactions. I hope you find this information useful.
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This was provided to me by Soil2coco.
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Appreciation to the contributors for the comprehensive program. It's understood that each component must be integrated separately, with the key components being added in the order: masterblend, calcium, and then magnesium, each one at a time.
A question arises regarding the type of water used - is it osmosis-treated or straight from the tap? A conversation with a hydroponics supplier in Europe revealed that they use plain tap water when working with master blend. What's your take on this? Could the issue potentially be stemming from the use of osmosis water?