Master Blend for Marijuana questions and answers
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Soil2Coco shared their feeding routine.
This message was originally composed on an iPhone using the Grasscity Forum. Apologies for the earlier edit to the post. Can you share the Parts Per Million levels you use?
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Great to hear you're having success with the 650-750 range, it's proving to be cost-effective as well. There's no need to invest in pricier products like AN or other diluted ones. Your switch to LED has further reduced costs.
Unfortunately, health issues and a mite infestation have disrupted my growing cycles. I haven't been able to harvest for two periods and it's affecting me significantly. I'm planning to plant auto flowers in the garden, taking a break from indoor growth, in hopes of eradicating any mite presence by winter. Assuming I'm healthy and up to it by then, I'll get back to it.
This message was sent from my iPhone via the Grasscity Forum.
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Thanks to Clearsky and Harddrive for providing the complete program. I understand that each component needs to be incorporated separately. The sequence went with masterblend first, followed by calcium, and finally magnesium, each added one at a time.
Harddrive, do you prefer using purified water or regular tap water? I contacted a hydroponics supplier in Europe, who told me that they just use ordinary tap water. What's your take on this? It's possible that the issue might be due to the use of purified water... -
I recently transitioned from using a GH 3 part to a Master Blend, which includes Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, as well as flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've been following a feeding schedule that has worked well so far. I'm more than 40 days into the flowering stage and the buds are beginning to droop and take on a rough appearance, with high levels of thrics making them sticky.
The feeding schedule involves the use of magnesium sulfate, calcium nitrate, and a Masterblend 4-18-38 base. It's fantastic to have the flexibility to adjust these throughout the growing process. For example, in the early vegetative stage for every 5 gallons, I use 3g of magnesium sulfate, 6g of calcium nitrate, 6g of the Masterblend base, 12 ml of silica, and 12 ml of hydroguard.
In the late vegetative stage for every 5 gallons, I step up to 5g of magnesium sulfate, 10g of calcium nitrate, 10g of the Masterblend base, and maintain the same amount of silica and hydroguard.
For early flowering in week 3 per 5 gallons, I use 8g of magnesium sulfate, 2g of calcium nitrate, 8g of the Masterblend base, and half a dose of Flower Fuel.
In the mid-flowering stage (weeks 4-6) per 5 gallons, the use goes up to 10g of magnesium sulfate and the Masterblend base, 1g of calcium nitrate, and a full dose of Flower Fuel.
In the week before flushing, I reduce to 5g each of magnesium sulfate and the Masterblend base, and half a dose of Flower Fuel. I then flush for about a week or until the ppm is below 200. This is the feeding schedule I follow.
Message sent using the Grasscity Forum on my iPhone.
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Appreciate the update. You're currently running between 650-750, and it's working out well. I'm delighted to hear about your success. With this approach, you'll have a sustainable and cost-effective nutrient supply for years to come. There's no need to splurge on expensive or diluted products like AN. The transition to LED lighting further reduces your costs.
However, I've been having health issues that keep me hospital-bound, and I'm struggling with a recurring mite infestation, which has prevented me from harvesting for two cycles. It's quite frustrating. To disrupt this cycle, I'm planting auto flowers outdoors. My hope is to completely eradicate the mite infestation in the indoor space by winter. If my health permits, I plan to resume operations.
This message was sent using the Grasscity Forum app on my iPhone.
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If you're within a reasonable distance, I'll deliver you some when I make a cut in the next few weeks. Thanks for the sentiment, but regrettably, I reside in a less than ideal part of New York state.
Sent from my smartphone via the Grasscity Forum.
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It's great to see you're still active on the discussion boards. It's really unfortunate to learn that the second batch also got infested with mites. That's truly disappointing.
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Apologies.
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I recently changed my fertilisation protocol from using a 3-part GH formula to a combination of Master Blend, Epsom salt, calcium nitrate, flower fuel, and potassium silicate. I've been adhering to a specific feeding regimen, and thus far, it's been working out well. I'm currently past the 40-day mark of the flowering stage, and the blossoms are beginning to droop and become rather rough in appearance, with an exceptionally high trichome count.
The feeding schedule I've been following uses a base of Masterblend 4-18-38, along with magnesium sulphate and calcium nitrate. I find being able to adjust these quantities throughout the growth process very beneficial. For example, during the early vegetative stage for every 5 gallons, I use 3g of magnesium sulphate, 6g of calcium nitrate, 6g of Masterblend base, 12 ml of silica, and 12 ml of hydroguard.
During the late vegetative stage, these quantities increase to 5g of magnesium sulphate, 10g of calcium nitrate, and 10g of Masterblend base, while the silica and hydroguard remain at 12 ml. In the early flowering stage (week 3), the quantities change to 8g of magnesium sulphate, 2g of calcium nitrate, 8g of Masterblend base, and a half dose of Flower Fuel.
During the mid-flowering stage (weeks 4-6), the quantities increase to 10g of magnesium sulphate, 1g of calcium nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, and a full dose of Flower Fuel. In the week before flush, I reduce the quantities to 5g of magnesium sulphate, 5g of Masterblend base, and a half dose of Flower Fuel. I then proceed to flush for about a week or until the ppm falls below 200.
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The original message states that the individual is using a recirculating deep water culture system with reverse osmosis water due to the high levels of chloramines in the city water, which is harmful to their plants. At present, the individual is maintaining a Parts Per Million (PPM) level of around 650-750 and is curious about the optimal level of PPM. They also note that the plants are consuming an average of 5 gallons of water per day, and there's concern about maintaining the 650-750 ratio each time water is added, as failure to do so causes the PPM to drop to approximately 500.
The individual also worries about the accumulation of salts, and wonders if it would be beneficial to change the reservoir once a week to prevent this build-up.
The user then expresses an interest in exploring the methods of another individual, acknowledging that different fertiliser brands can have varying recommended PPM/ECs and that these can sometimes cause discrepancies that affect concentrations.
In terms of reservoir maintenance, the user mentions a cleaning routine of about 7-10 days, unless an issue arises. They use FloraKleen to flush the reservoir, then drain and replace it with a new mixture. Periodically, they also clean the reservoir with peroxide and bleach, especially between growth cycles or when issues arise.
Lastly, during the final few weeks of the growth cycle, the user starts to add boosters and reduce nitrogen levels. They believe that these boosters significantly enhance the final product.
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Presented to me by Soil2coco
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I manage a Recirculating Deep Water Culture (RDWC) system using Reverse Osmosis (RO) water. The municipal water supply here has a high ppm around 350 and contains chloramines, which are harmful to my plants. Thus, I am compelled to use RO water. I can't even consume this water due to its chemical-like taste.
I'm unsure about the ideal Parts Per Million (PPM) levels.
What should be the highest PPM level? Currently, it hovers between 650 and 750.My plants consume approximately 5 gallons of water daily. The total capacity is about 25 gallons, but due to the buckets being filled with roots, it's less.
Should I maintain the 650-750 ratio every time I refill the water? If I don't, the level drops to about 500.
Lastly, I'm concerned about salt accumulation.
Would it be advisable to change the reservoir weekly to prevent salt build-up? -
Incorrect location
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Incorrect location
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I typically operate DTW with multiple feeds, which usually results in 500-600 ppm at maximum. This is a distinct process compared to DWC.
This message was posted from my iPhone using an online gardening forum.
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I operate a recirculating deep water culture (RDWC) system using reverse osmosis (RO) water because the municipal water supply, registering at approximately 350 parts per million (PPM), contains chloramines that are harmful to my plants. Even drinking the water is unpalatable due to its distinct chemical taste.
I'm wondering about the ideal PPM levels for my setup. Currently, I'm maintaining a range of 650-750 PPM.
Also, the plants are consuming about 5 gallons of water daily, and my storage capacity is limited to 25 gallons, due to the 5-gallon buckets being filled with roots.
Should I strive to keep the PPM ratio constant at 650-750 each time I refill? If not, it drops to roughly 500 or so.
Lastly, regarding salt accumulation, would it be beneficial to refresh the reservoir weekly to prevent build-up?
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Apologies.
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It's great to see you continuing to participate in the forums. It's unfortunate to hear that you encountered mites again in the second round. That's really disappointing.
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I recently transitioned from using a GH 3 part mix to a Master Blend that includes Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, as well as flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've been using a feeding schedule that's been working well so far. I'm over 40 days into the flowering phase and the buds are beginning to droop and take on a gnarled appearance. The trichomes are so abundant that if you throw a bud, it would stick to the wall.
The feeding schedule involves manipulating the amounts of magnesium sulfate, calcium nitrate, and Masterblend 4-18-38 base at different stages of growth. For early vegetation, I use 3g of magnesium sulfate, 6g of calcium nitrate, 6g of the Masterblend base, 12 ml of silica, and 12 ml of hydroguard for every 5 gallons.
During late vegetation, I increase the amounts to 5g of magnesium sulfate, 10g of calcium nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, while keeping the silica and hydroguard at 12 ml each.
In the early flowering stage (week 3), I use 8g of magnesium sulfate, 2g of calcium nitrate, 8g of Masterblend base, and half a dose of flower fuel.
During mid-flowering (weeks 4-6), the amounts are 10g of magnesium sulfate, 1g of calcium nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, and a full dose of flower fuel.
In the week before flushing, I decrease the amounts to 5g of magnesium sulfate, 5g of Masterblend base, and half a dose of flower fuel. I then flush for a week or until the ppms come out below 200. That's the feeding schedule I've been using.
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The paraphrased text would be:
The multi-feed method I use usually has a concentration of around 500-600 parts per million (ppm). This technique is different from Deep Water Culture (DWC).
For my current setup, I'm maintaining a concentration of 650-750 ppm and the plants seem to be thriving.