Master Blend for Marijuana questions and answers
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I typically operate DTW with several feeds, which generally maintains a range of 500-600 ppm at most. This is quite different from DWC.
Message sent using the Grasscity Forum app on my iPhone.
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I'm not fond of New York as well.
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HardDrive mentioned that they would bring some items over in a few weeks if the other person lives relatively close, possibly within a couple of states. They then expressed gratitude for the thought but stated that they unfortunately reside in an unpleasant state. This message was sent from their iPhone using the Grasscity Forum.
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The issue emerged during the second week of growth and escalated rapidly.
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The issue surfaced during the second week of growth and escalated rapidly.
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Recently, I changed from using GH 3 part to Master Blend, incorporating Epsom salt, calcium nitrate, flower fuel, and potassium silicate. I've been adhering to a particular feeding schedule and it's been effective. I'm over 40 days into flowering and the buds are starting to topple over and develop an unusual appearance. Their stickiness is so high that a bud can adhere to a wall if thrown.
The core elements of the schedule include magnesium sulfate, calcium nitrate, and a 4-18-38 base of Masterblend. It's beneficial to adjust these quantities throughout the grow. For instance, in the early veg stage for each 5 gallons, I use 3g magnesium sulfate, 6g calcium nitrate, 6g Masterblend base, 12ml silica, and 12ml hydroguard. In the late veg stage per 5 gallons, I increase to 5g magnesium sulfate, 10g calcium nitrate, 10g Masterblend base, along with the same silica and hydroguard quantities.
At the start of flowering (week 3) per 5 gallons, I use 8g magnesium sulfate, 2g calcium nitrate, 8g Masterblend base, and half a dose of flower fuel. In the mid flowering weeks (4-6) for each 5 gallons, I increase to 10g magnesium sulfate, 1g calcium nitrate, 10g Masterblend base, and a full dose of flower fuel.
The week before the flush, I decrease to 5g magnesium sulfate, 5g Masterblend base, and half a dose of flower fuel. I then proceed to flush for about a week or until the ppms fall below 200.
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Soil2Coco stated that they primarily use Deep Water Culture with multiple feeds, which typically results in 500-600 parts per million. This is a different scenario than Deep Water Culture.
The message was sent from their iPhone via the Grasscity Forum.
They acknowledged the thanks and mentioned that they are presently operating at 650-750, which seems to be well received.
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I'm also not fond of New York.
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Appreciation is extended to the two contributors for the comprehensive program. The process demands the integration of different parts separately. First, a master blend is incorporated, followed by calcium, and finally magnesium. Each of these are added individually.
A question arises regarding the type of water to use - osmosis or tap water? A conversation with a hydroponics supplier based in Europe who sells Master blend revealed they simply use tap water. Could this be an area of concern? Perhaps the issue might stem from the use of osmosis water.
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The issue surfaced during the second week of growth and escalated rapidly.
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The process of growing in soil involves using three parts of the masterblend. However, you should not combine the calcium with the masterblend and Epsom salts. First, blend the masterblend with the Epsom salts in your water. After that, add a bit more water before incorporating the calcium. Finally, add the remaining water and regulate the pH levels. Avoid mixing everything together at once as it can cause complications. This information might already be familiar to you, but I hope it's helpful nonetheless.
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Hi, I recently purchased and tested Master blend. I'm using a hydroponics system with osmosis water, specifically the ebb and flow method, and following the soil2coco program. However, I'm facing a major issue with calcium deficiency. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Apologies for any language errors, as I am a grower from a non-English speaking background.
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Soil2Coco mentioned that they usually administer multiple feeds, leading to a maximum of 500-600 ppm, which differs significantly from DWC.
In response from my iPhone on the Grasscity Forum, I expressed gratitude.
Currently, I'm operating at 650-750 and it seems to be well-received.
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The text has been altered as per your request:
This is my nutrient regimen.
Sent via my iPhone on the Grasscity Forum.
Apologies, I've made changes to my previous message.
What's your measurement for parts per million? -
Incorrect location
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Presented to me by Soil2coco.
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If you're reasonably nearby, say within a couple of states, I can deliver some to you when I harvest in a few weeks.
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I operate a recirculating deep water culture system utilising reverse osmosis (RO) water, as our local water supply is approximately 350 PPM and contains chloramines that harm my plants. I'm left with no other option but to use RO, as even the taste of the water is quite chemical-laden and undrinkable.
Now, my query revolves around the ideal PPM levels. What should be the maximum limit to which I can increase the PPM? At present, my range is between 650 and 750.
Moreover, my plants are consuming about 5 gallons of water each day. With my current setup of bucket capacity, I can only accommodate approximately 25 gallons considering the 5-gallon buckets are entirely filled with roots.
Additionally, should I strive to maintain the 650-750 range each time I replenish the water? If not, I've noticed it drops to roughly 500.
Lastly, I'm concerned about salt accumulation. Would it be advisable to change the reservoir weekly to prevent salt build-up?
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Appreciate your response. It's great to see your current settings are working well. The advantage of this is that you'll have a long-lasting supply of nutrients at a fraction of the cost, eliminating the need to invest in expensive or diluted products. Plus, the transition to LED lighting has further reduced your expenses.
Unfortunately, due to my recurring health issues and a persistent mite infestation, I haven't been able to harvest for two seasons, which is quite frustrating. My strategy is to grow autoflowers in the garden to disrupt the indoor cycle. My hope is to completely eliminate all mite traces in the room by the winter season, provided I maintain good health and am able to resume my activities.
Message sent via a mobile app forum.
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Recently, I've transitioned from using a GH 3-part system to a Master Blend that includes Epsom salt and calcium nitrate, along with flower fuel and potassium silicate. I've adopted a specific feeding schedule that I've found to be effective - more than 40 days into flowering, my plants are thriving and the buds are maturing very well.
The feeding schedule relies on manipulating the proportions of Magnesium sulfate, Calcium Nitrate, and a Masterblend 4-18-38 base throughout the growth cycle. For example, in early vegetation stage for each 5 gallons, I use 3g of Magnesium sulfate, 6g of Calcium Nitrate, 6g of Masterblend base, 12 ml of silica, and 12 ml of hydroguard. In the late vegetation stage, I increase the quantities to 5g of Magnesium sulfate, 10g of Calcium Nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, along with the same amounts of silica and hydroguard.
As the plant enters the early flowering stage around week 3, I adjust again to 8g Magnesium sulfate, 2g Calcium Nitrate, 8g Masterblend base, and a half dose of Flower Fuel. In the mid-flowering phase, weeks 4-6, I use 10g of Magnesium sulfate, 1g of Calcium Nitrate, 10g of Masterblend base, and a full dose of Flower Fuel.
In the week before the flush, I reduce the quantities to 5g of Magnesium sulfate, 5g of Masterblend base, and half a dose of Flower Fuel. The flush is carried out for a week or longer until the PPMs are below 200. I cannot claim the credit for this efficient feeding schedule, it is borrowed from another experienced grower.